Part 4: Tinting & Chroming

The method I used to tint the visor was VHT Nite-Shades Spray tint. I have seen another method involving black RIT dye, which I will link to HERE. Personally I like the look of the nite-shades better, as the dyeing method leaves a red tint to the visor. 

The spray tint is extremely hard to get an even tint without dark areas. Put on 1 light coat at a time to prevent making the spray too dark to see light through. If the tint becomes too dark you can use a product called Mothers Plastic Polish and a Microfiber rag to buff out the dark areas.

Chroming:

My helmet was chromed at Creations N' Chrome. They use a special spray on chrome called cosmichrome thats works on plaster. I highly recommend using CnC for chroming. The chroming at CnC will run you around 300$ + shipping, which is fairly cheap considering what all has to be done.

The chrome paint is fairly thick so make sure to leave screws in all T-Nuts to prevent ruining the threads.

This is probably the most important step to get right of the whole build so do it right. A Daft Punk helmet without chrome is no daft punk helmet at all amiright?

Part 5: Routing Wires

Ear Boards

First, set in the EKG decal. Behind that set in some the Green color gel. Keep the white backing on the gel, this will be sufficient enough to diffuse the light. I placed another piece of foam between the decal and the color gel to give the EKG a white look on the outside when the LED is off.

Position the decal and glue everything in place. I used 3M Black Weatherstrip adhesive to glue it in place. This helps block light from escaping around the ear decal.

Back the circuit board with double stick tape and wrap it with electrical tape to ensure it doesn't slip.

Stick the taped board onto the helmet like so and route the wires down.

Place in the Red/Green LEDs and hook the ear PCB to power. Test your connections and make sure no light escapes around the outer ring.

Fan Boards

The following steps require a lot of patience and trial and error. Make sure you have a good 12 hours to waste before beginning. Start by putting in both the Fan Rigs and the Back Plate. The Back Plate will serve as the hub for your circuit boards.

Position the helmet so you can see inside = Put the helmet upside down in a bowl.

To fix the boards to the helmet attach them to a piece of foam. This is because the inside of the helmet is curved and circuit boards are obviously not. The foam conforms to the helmet thus securing the boards.

There is no real method to routing the wires. Just try to organize them around the helmet.

It's going to get crowded...

Don't worry if the wires aren't pretty. The next step is to cover them.

END: PART 5: ROUTING WIRES

Part 6: Finishing Touches

Padding & Liner

For padding I used thick blocks of foam and cut them to 3/4 inch thick.

Start cutting out a pattern and testing each fit. Keep trimming until the helmet stays secure on your head. The padding should fit fairly tight on your face.

For the liner, I picked up some regular grey fabric. You can also use automotive headliner fabric. Just make sure the fabric is comfortable and and not too thick.

Cut off a piece of fabric slightly larger than what you need and lay it in the helmet to see how it fits. Glue the fabric around the edges of the helmet and then trim off the excess. I used velcro to secure the rest of the fabric, just in case I ever need to fix anything inside the helmet.

Trim any excess fabric from the visor area. Your vision is blocked enough as it is.